It is really lovely to be able to take a gorgeous piece of fabric and turn it into a pair of pyjama bottoms for your child – this pattern is very easy. This is the perfect place to start if you want to begin dressmaking.
1-1½ metres of cotton fabric (avoid stretch, shine and stripes especially if this is your first attempt). I used Critters & Trees Flannel from A.E Nathan.
Pyjama pattern (this will open as an 8 page pdf for you to print the pages and stick together).
Print out the pattern exact size on your computer, each piece will fit on an A4 page then stick together being guided by the black numbers. Once complete , cut out the pattern around the lines.
The pattern here is for a 4-5 year old but if you require a larger size, measure your child’s waist and height and then move the pieces apart an equal distance until the pattern is the correct waist and length and then fix back together using sticky tape because there are gaps in the pattern, it is probably better to trace the new size on to some tissue/tracing paper. If the pattern needs to be smaller, take the individual pieces and overlap the pieces by equal amounts and reattach.
The pattern already has ⅝ inch (1.5 cm) seam allowance included. Press your fabric with an iron to remove any creases.
Lay your piece of fabric flat with the wrong side facing up, take one end and fold the fabric in half lengthwise so that the selvedge edges are together on both edges and there is a fold across the width of the fabric.
If your fabric has a completely symmetrical pattern, it is possible to pin the pattern on at this point, however, if there is a right way and wrong way for the pattern to lie, the underside of the fabric will be upside down. To ensure that both legs of the pyjamas have the pattern running in the same direction, it is necessary to cut the fabric in half along the fold.
Once the pieces have been cut, rotate one of the pieces 180° without turning the fabric over. It is essential that both pieces of fabric have the pattern running in the same direction with the wrong sides of the fabric touching.
Make sure the edges are lined up and then place the pattern piece on the fabric ensuring that the grainline is parallel to the selvedge edge, measure from the top of the grainline marking to the selvedge edge and again from the bottom of the grainline marking to the selvedge edge, these measurements should be the same to ensure that the fabric will lie properly.
Pin the pattern to the fabric keeping the paper flat so that it does not pull against the material. Cut out the fabric, stay close to the pattern and cut around the notches to make matching seams easier, please note that the notches at the front and back are different sizes so these need to be cut accurately as they will show the difference between the front and back seam. Remove the pins and take the pattern off the fabric.
To make the first leg fold the long edges right side together and pin along the long straight edge, not around the curve – pin with the pins at right angles to the edge of the fabric and you will be able to machine over the pins. If you prefer you can tack these edges by hand to hold them together and then machine.
Repeat for other leg and then machine along the length of the inside leg seam, ⅝ inch from the edge . These edges can be finished with an overlocker or using a zigzag stitch along the edge. Press the seams flat.
Turn one leg the right way out and insert into the leg which is inside out, match the inside leg seams and curve of the crotch seam using the notches and pin right the way around the curved seam – this ensures that the right sides are together.
Machine around the crotch seam and once complete machine again next to the first line of stitching to give extra strength to the seam. It is easy to see the difference in the front and back by the size of notches, the front has smaller notches. If overlocking this seam, it will be necessary to mark the fabric so that it is possible to differentiate between the seams.
Press the front seam open and with the wrong side of the fabric facing stich along the raw edges for about 7 cm so that they are sewn to the front of the trousers, this will make threading a ribbon through a much easier task.
Using the iron, press 1cm over at the top edge of the waist and then another 4 cm to make a casing for the ribbon.
On the inside of the pyjamas, sew around the edge of the fold close to the edge, start at the back and go right around the top. Then sew another line of stitching leaving a 1.5 cm gap between the two rows of sewing.
Turn the pyjama bottoms to the right side and use a seam unpicker to cut the stitches between the two rows of sewing at the front seam, this is where the ribbon will be inserted.
Take the ribbon and place a safety pin at the end, insert into the gap in the stitching and continue round until the pin comes out the other end, it should be easy to pull through as the seam allowance is stitched down at this point and the safety pin will not get caught underneath. Pull the ribbon through until the ends are equal, ease the gathering around and tie in a bow.
To finish turn 1 cm over at the bottom of each leg and then a further 2cm to make a neat edge, machine around each edge to finish.
Now you have a comfy pair of pyjama bottoms for your child to snuggle up in.
To find out more about Lynne and her craft classes in Essex please visit http://www.themakeitroom.co.uk/
Legal Notice – Please be aware that if you are selling or supplying children’s nightwear there are safety regulations that you must comply with, check the trading standards website for more information.