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This project was designed by Susan Dunlop of SusieDDesigns. Susan's new book 'Style and Swing' is available from Amazon.


Padded Satchel Project

 Sew a useful padded satchel


Make this modern satchel-style shoulder bag, ideal for every-day use. The main body and outer pockets are all padded, offering a safe place to store your smart phone and tablet. The adjustable shoulder strap is long enough to wear across the body. 

 

You will need...

1.5m main fabric - cotton print  (we used fabric kindly printed by By Hand London. They have a great range of patterns. To find out more about their patterns visit here). 

0.5m lining fabric – cotton print or solid

1.5m medium-weight woven fusible interfacing

0.5m medium-loft fusible fleece

2 x 38mm D-rings

2 x 38mm swivel hook snaps

1 x 38mm belt slide

10cm length of Velcro (optional)

(Interfacing, fleece and metal hardware available from SusieDDesigns, www.susieddesigns.co.uk).

 

 Messenger style bag to sew

 

Project Notes

Yardage based on 112cm width fabric and 90cm width stabilisers.

R/S = right side, W/S = wrong side.

RST = right side together, WST = wrong side together.

Seam allowances are included in the cutting sizes.

Use 1cm seam allowance throughout, unless stated otherwise.

I didn’t use any Velcro fastenings for my bag as the pocket flap stays shut on its own, as does the large flap closure. However, I’ve included instructions for adding Velcro if you prefer to do so. Alternatively, you could install magnetic snaps during the bag construction or use some sew-on snaps.

Approx. finished bag size: 25cm x 27cm x 6cm.

 

Cutting

From the main fabric: 

Cut 2 main body, 30cm x 35cm
Cut 1 flap closure, 25cm x 30cm
Cut 1 D-ring tab, 15cm x 25cm
Cut 1 large pocket, 20cm x 25cm
1 small pocket, 15cm x 15cm
1 pocket flap, 8cm x 15cm
1 interior pocket lining, 25cm x 25cm
1 shoulder strap, 15cm x 142cm

 From the lining fabric:

Cut 2 main body lining, 30cm x 35cm
Cut 1 flap closure, 25cm x 30cm
Cut 1 large pocket lining, 20cm x 25cm
Cut 1 small pocket lining, 15cm x 15cm
Cut 1 pocket flap lining, 8cm x 15cm
Cut 1 interior pocket, 20cm x 25cm

From the fusible interfacing:

Cut 4 main body, 30cm x 35cm
Cut 2 flap closures, 25cm x 30cm
Cut 1 D-ring tab, 7.5cm x 25cm
Cut 1 large pocket, 20cm x 25cm
Cut 1 small pocket, 15cm x 15cm
Cut 1 pocket flap, 8cm x 15cm
Cut 1 interior pocket, 20cm x 25cm
Cut 1 shoulder strap, 7.5cm x 130cm

From the fusible fleece:

 Cut 2 main body, 27cm x 32cm
Cut 1 flap closure, 22cm x 27cm
Cut 1 large pocket, 17cm x 22cm
Cut 1 small pocket, 12cm x 12cm
Cut 1 pocket flap, 5cm x 12cm

 

Preparation 

Fuse interfacing pieces to W/S of corresponding main/lining fabric pieces, positioning tab piece centrally widthways and strap piece centrally widthways with 6cm gaps at both short ends.

 I rounded off the bottom corners of the main flap closure, small pocket, pocket flap and large pocket. If you want to do this, place a glass into each corner and mark curves. Remember to mark and cut curves into the corresponding fusible fleece as well. 

Fuse fleece pieces to W/S of corresponding main fabric pieces, directly on top of the fused interfacing, positioning centrally to leave equal gaps around all edges. Note: use a pressing cloth when fusing the fleece.

 

Make the small and large pockets

Sewing machine bag project

 
Place large pocket and lining pieces RST, pin. Stitch all edges, leaving a gap at centre of top edge for turning. Trim across corners and notch curves (if applicable). Trim back side and bottom seam allowances to 5mm (don’t trim top edge).

 Turn through to R/S and ease all edges and corners out neatly with a point turner. Fold in gap edges to match rest of the seam, press. Topstitch all edges, using a 5mm seam, closing the gap as you stitch.

Optional: cut a 5cm length of Velcro and stitch one half to R/S of large pocket, positioning centrally widthways and 6cm up from bottom edge. Note: the other half of the Velcro will be attached to the main flap closure later.

 

Making pockets for satchel project


Repeat steps above to make the small pocket and pocket flap. Optional: cut another 5cm length of Velcro and stitch one half to R/S of small pocket, centrally widthways and 5mm down from top edge. Stitch the other half of the Velcro to lining side of pocket flap, 5mm up from bottom edge.

 

Make the flap closure

Satchel project by Susan Dunlop

 
Place flap closure and lining pieces RST, pin. Stitch the sides and bottom edge. Trim across corners and notch curves (if applicable) and trim side and bottom seam allowances back to 5mm.

 Turn through to R/S, easing all edges out with a point turner. Topstitch sides and bottom edge, with a 5mm seam. Machine-baste the open top edge with a 5mm seam. 

Optional: stitch the remaining half of Velcro to lining side of flap closure, centrally widthways and 5mm up from bottom edge.

 

Make the interior pocket

Making pockets for a bag

 
Place interior pocket and lining pieces RST, aligning sides and bottom edges, pin. Stitch sides and bottom edge. Trim across the bottom corners.


Make a satchel by SusieDDesigns

 
Turn through to R/S and ease edges and corners out neatly. Fold over and press the side edges of overlapping lining to line up with the side seams. Fold over top edge of lining to meet pocket top edge, press. Fold over again to overlap pocket, press and pin. Topstitch sides and bottom folded edge of the overlapping lining, staying close to edge.

 

Attach the pockets

Satchel project to sew

 
With both R/S up, place large pocket on top of one main body, positioning 5cm down from top edge, pin. Topstitch sides and bottom edge using a 3mm seam, backstitching at beginning and end.

 Repeat step above to attach small pocket to flap closure, positioning 3cm up from bottom edge.

 Position pocket flap in line with small pocket, overlapping the pocket to match up the Velcro, pin. Topstitch two parallel lines of stitching across top edge.

 

Bag making tutorial


 Position interior pocket centrally on top of one main body lining piece, pin. Topstitch sides and bottom edge with a 3mm seam.

 

Sew the outer and lining bags

Constructing a satchel

 
Place the two main body pieces RST, pin. Stitch down one side, across the bottom and up other side. Press seams open and leave W/S out.

Make the flat base by boxing the corners: refold a corner to match up the side and bottom seam, RST, pin. Measure 3cm down from corner and draw a line across where the width measures 6cm between the folded edges. Stitch marked line and trim off corner to leave a 5mm seam allowance. Repeat to box the other corner. Turn R/S out. 

Bag making tutorial


Repeat previous steps to sew the main body lining pieces but this time leave a 15cm turning gap at centre of bottom seam. Create the flat base. Leave W/S out.

 

 Make and attach the D-ring tabs

Making d-ring tabs for a bag project


Fold tab piece in half lengthways, WST, press. Open out, so W/S facing up and fold long edges over to W/S, to meet at centre crease, press. Fold lengthways again, to bring the folded edges together, press. Topstitch both long edges, with a 3mm seam.

 Cut tab into two pieces of equal length. Fold one around a D-ring, bringing the short edges together, pin and baste. Repeat for second tab.

 Position each tab at top edge of outer bag, centrally across each side seam and matching up raw edges. Pin and baste in place.

 

Assemble the bag

Instructions to sew a satchel

 
With RST, pin top edge of flap closure to the back of outer bag, matching up raw edges. Machine-baste 5mm from edge. 

Insert outer bag into lining bag, with RST, matching up side seams and top edges, pin. Ensure the tabs and flap remain tucked down inside the layers. Stitch all around top edge. 


Make a satchel with Susan Dunlop


Pull outer bag through the gap in the lining, to bring both R/S out. Fold in and press the gap edges, to match rest of seam, pin. Slip-stitch by hand or machine-stitch staying close to edges. Push the lining down inside outer bag and press the top edges so the seam sits neatly at the top. Topstitch all around bag opening, with a 5mm seam.

 

Bag making tutorials to sew

 
Make the shoulder strap by folding in half lengthways, WST, press. Open out, so W/S facing up and fold short edges over to W/S by 2cm, press. Fold long edges over to W/S, to meet at centre crease, press. Fold lengthways again, to bring all folded edges together, press. Topstitch all edges, with a 3mm seam.


Make a strap for satchel project

 
Thread one end of the shoulder strap through the belt slide. Fold over by 4cm, keeping the slide at the fold, pin. Topstitch two parallel lines of stitching to secure. Thread the other end of the strap through one of the swivel hook snaps and take it back through the slide, creating a loop. Thread the free end of strap through other swivel hook snap. Fold over and topstitch strap end, as before.


Sew a satchel with Susan Dunlop


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